TIJUANA, A CLOSE BUT SOMETIMES DISTANT NEIGHBOR

FROM HONKY TONK TO MODERN CITY

It is usually Mexico’s resort cities or those with significant colonial history that are the subject of articles. Rarely are places like Tijuana chronicled except as background to pieces about immigration problems or the drug war. But since our main focus is Mexican food we write about where we find it in its most interesting and delicious forms, and there’s more than a few of them in Tijuana!

Tijuana, the world’s busiest border crossing, is about fifteen minutes south of San Diego and close enough for a day trip by the vast number of people living in southern California. Tijuana’s reputation was made, as was that of so many other border towns, during the Prohibition era. During those “dry” years, impresarios, entertainers and entrepreneurs of all sorts flocked to the Mexican side of the border to provide liquor and other diversions to thirsty, bored Americans. After Prohibition was repealed, other border towns withered away, but not Tijuana. World War II and San Diego’s naval facilities ensured a steady supply of young servicemen looking for a place to unwind, and Tijuana was only too happy to oblige, becoming an even raunchier, world class honky-tonk in the process.

But during all those years, beneath the dusty veneer of sleaze, which in any case was pretty much confined to one part of town—seven or eight blocks along Avenida Revolución—a very interesting Mexican city was taking shape. Propelled by the advantages—and disadvantages—of being a stone’s throw from a major U.S. population center, Tijuana developed apace.

During the seventies the city fathers decided to change Tijuana’s image. Banished (at least from the main street) were the bordellos, most of the strip joints and seedy bars. Their places were taken by an expansion of the already numerous shops selling what is charitably described as “Border Art” catering to American and Japanese tourists. Also added were a couple of upscale department stores and some better quality shops. But the main ambiance was still defined by the hundreds of shops aggressively selling everything from clay donkeys, velvet paintings, and cheap serapes, to liquor and inexpensive (sometimes counterfeit) prescription drugs and perfume. What is of interest to us is that, in addition to the above, a few good restaurants and some spectacular taco stands opened along Avenida Revolución, and many more in other parts of town.

During this same period a huge development of office buildings, hotels and shopping centers began along the Tijuana River. Since that time the Río district, as it is called, has become a small city in its own right and boasts some truly fine restaurants and interesting shopping, almost all of it oriented toward Mexicans rather than tourists. The city’s huge produce market was also moved to this area from its former home near Avenida Revolución.

So, for the tourist, (in addition to the city at large) there are really two specific areas of interest: The more typical border town, tourist haunt—but nevertheless one with some fine food and shopping—along Revolución, and the more upscale shopping and restaurants of the Río district.

Since most visitors to Tijuana do not stay overnight, the following recommendations have been limited to a few favorites.

TRAVELING TO TIJUANA

There are two main ways to visit Tijuana: you can drive across the border and find your destinations, or you can park on the U.S. side, walk across, and take taxis to wherever you wish to go. For first time visitors and those with little or no experience driving in Mexico, the latter is often the best choice. While taxis are not, by any means, dirt cheap, you avoid the stress of driving in an unfamiliar town in an unfamiliar country. You will also not have to search for your destinations’ addresses, which are often unmarked, and the taxi cost can be shared. On the other hand, you may not be able to bring back everything you wish, including large, heavy items like ceramic pots.

DINING IN TIJUANA

Being in northen Mexico, Tijuana is known for its char-broiled steaks and tacos, with the tacos often being made from the New York cut, something rarely found elsewhere. Tijuana is also on the coast with access to fresh-daily seafood. You can find some delicious examples of the latter, but you must always be careful because refrigeration is still not as universally efficient as it is north of the border, and nothing ruins a trip more quickly than food poisoning.

On or near Avenida Revolucion

Los Panchos
My favorite taco stop is Los Panchos on Avenida Revolución, just north of Third Street on the East side, and just south of the Gigante store (which is one of the cheapest places to buy liquor, and next to which is a reliable source of Cuban cigars). The tacos are made outside the small restaurant on a grill with New York steak and served on fresh, steaming corn tortillas with guacamole and a couple of salsas. You can either be seated and eat inside, or pay the cashier and pick up your tacos outside. They serve other items, including a huge burrito, but the tacos are the star attraction.

Chiki-Jai
Located at 1050 Avenida Revolución, Chiki-Jai is one of the area’s oldest restaurants. It specializes in Basque style food, so don’t expect tacos and enchiladas. Instead of the usual chips and salsa, diners are presented with delicious, fresh-baked bolillos (French style rolls), accompanied by sizeable portions of blue cheese. Perhaps their most popular dish is the garlic shrimp. They are also known for their soups which come with the meal.

La Costa
La Costa has been a Tijuana seafood staple for many years. Located at 8131 Galeana it has a fine selection of fresh seafood and lobster.

Café la Especial
Located at 718 Avenida Revolución, downstairs and to the right, this modest restaurant serves decent food at reasonable prices. The carne asada is probably the best choice, although they also serve a tasty (but greasy) combination plate.

The Río Area

Cien Años
Located at 1407 José María Velazco, this is one of Tijuana’s best restaurants. Although fairly small, it is casual, well designed and decorated, with friendly service. If you like really hot food try one of the dishes in their chipotle sauce, but be warned that it will bring tears to the eyes and sear the palate of even the most confirmed chile head. A delicious, and strikingly original choice is the pollo agridulce, a boneless breast that is pounded thin, sauteed, and topped with finely chopped ancho chiles in a unique sweet and sour sauce.

La Espadaña
At 10813 Avenida Sanchez Taboada, this huge, bustling restaurant is known for excellent food and friendly service. It is the perfect choice for the less adventurous. If you like the Outback Steakhouse this is your place! With the complimentary chips and salsa, they also serve a delicious (although sometimes salty) portion of shredded beef and fresh, steaming corn tortillas. Everything is good, but the char-broiled quail is a standout.

Las carnes
This simple place at 10471 Paseo de los Héroes, with its mesquite grill in the center, is a quintessential Northern Mexican steakhouse. Make your order and watch the chef prepare it on the grill! Any of the steaks or the brocheta (shishkabob), made with tenderloin steak, are excellent choices.

RECIPES

POLLO AGRIDULCE Sweet and Sour Chicken

This recipe was adapted from the one served at Tijuana’s Cien Años restaurant. It has all the classic recipe elements: sweet, sour, hot and salty, and delivers a fresh taste with unexpectedly mild heat (considering the large amount of ancho chiles).

1/4 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup water
Heaping 1/4 teaspoon salt
5 teaspoons sugar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup (about 3) ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded and very finely chopped
3 - 4 tablespoons olive oil
4 boneless, skinless, half chicken breasts pounded to about 1/4 inch thick
Salt to taste
1 avocado sliced

Mix together the vinegar, water, salt and sugar until the solids have dissolved. Heat a saucepan over medium to medium low heat, add the 1/4 cup olive oil, garlic and finely chopped chiles, and cook, stirring constantly, until the chiles begin to darken and stiffen. Add ½ cup of the vinegar mixture and simmer until about 2/3 of the liquid has evaporated. Set the sauce aside until you are ready to prepare the chicken.

Sprinkle salt to taste over the chicken. Heat a skillet over medium high heat, add the 3 - 4 tablespoons olive oil, and saute the chicken until just done. (You will probably have to do this in two batches). Place the cooked chicken on serving plates, bring the chile mixture back to a boil and continue cooking until the remaining liquid has thickened to a sauce-like consistency. Spoon the chile and sauce over the chicken, garnish with avocado slices, and serve with Mexican style rice and steamed vegetables.

Serves 4

TACOS AL CARBÓN Char-broiled tacos

Many of Tijuana’s taquerías prepare their tacos al carbón with New York cut steaks. This is a fine choice, and, if you use a select rather than choice or prime cut, not too expensive.

1 lb New York cut steaks sliced to about 1/4 inch thick
Kosher salt
8 very fresh, hot corn tortillas
Guacamole made with minced onion and cilantro, to taste
Your favorite salsas

Prepare coals in a grill using mesquite wood or charcoal, if possible, or heat a gas grill. The most important consideration is that the fire be very hot so that the meat can be charred before being overcooked.

Sprinkle kosher salt on the steaks, to taste, grill them over a very hot fire until just medium done, then fill the tortillas and serve the tacos with the guacamole and salsas.

Makes 8 tacos.