Fajitas
- A Mexican Food Favorite
Sometime in the 1980's, South Texas restaurateurs took
a cut of meat that was often made into hamburger, and turned it into
a national food craze by literally selling the sizzle. At that time,
although the cut was very popular in northern Mexico (where it is
called arracheras) it was virtually unknown north of the border. A
decade or so later, the word that used to refer to skirt steak can
mean nearly anything! So-called chicken fajitas are as common as expensive
coffee places, and sirloin, shrimp, fish, lamb, pork and even asparagus
and eggplant fajitas turn up, as well. Restaurants have learned that
their customers will buy almost anything as long as it is char-broiled,
cut into little pieces and served on a smoking-hot platter.
Like so many other aspects of Mexican cooking, there are
unexpected subtleties in the seemingly simple preparation of fajitas.
For example, most of the skirt steak available in supermarkets is
tough—that’s why it was made into hamburger until Texans
sold the sizzle. So, fajitas usually require considerable tenderizing.
This can be accomplished by machine (which ruins the texture), through
a marinade (which changes its taste), or with a good powdered tenderizer,
which works fairly well. If you decide to use the latter, I recommend
Adolph’s® All Natural, Sodium Free, Original Unseasoned.
It does a good job without materially affecting the flavor.
There is, however, another solution that has been a carefully
guarded secret. Most supermarket skirt steak comes from what is called
the inside cut. That, of course, infers that there is an outside cut.
There is, and it is night and day more tender than the inside cut.
(The inside cut is on the inside near the stomach, while the outside
flap is, as one would imagine, outside, near the skin). But can you
get it? We can in some South Texas supermarkets, but it is often difficult
to find elsewhere. Just ask your butcher (bearing in mind that he
or she may not even know that there are two different cuts)!
If you cannot find the outside cut, there is yet another
option, but one that some purists consider cheating. There is a sirloin
flap that looks exactly like a skirt steak, is much more tender than
the inside cut skirt steak, and has much the same flavor and texture
as the outside skirt cut. Unfortunately, it too may be difficult to
find.
To be authentic, fajitas should be natural in both flavor
and texture, with nothing added but some lime juice, salt and pepper,
and the passionate kiss of mesquite smoke. If you cannot find the
outside cut of the skirt steak or the sirloin substitute, I suggest
you use the powdered tenderizer, as it adds the least amount of unnatural
flavor.
Although fajitas can be cooked over charcoal or hardwood,
on a gas grill, or pan-broiled in a ridged iron or regular skillet,
the authentic treatment requires either mesquite wood or charcoal.
The only alternative I do not recommend is to pan-broil fajitas on
a flat surface. While, even in Texas, this method is used, especially
for a crowd, it produces a less tender, less flavorful, and altogether
less interesting result.
To get the proper char, fajitas should be cooked over
a very hot fire. This can be achieved by using mesquite charcoal set
4 to 5 inches from the grill or with regular charcoal about 2 to 3
inches from the grill. If you have a grill with a cover it is best
not to close it as it will lower the temperature.
Because the skirt steak is quite dense it takes somewhat
longer to cook than a regular cut, such as a top sirloin. For example,
a skirt steak that is about ½ inch thick takes about the same
time to reach the desired degree of doneness as a 3/4 inch sirloin.
This is an advantage as it allows the thinner fajita to char a bit
on the outside without being overcooked on the inside.
Fajitas are usually broiled whole, then sliced into small
pieces against the grain for maximum tenderness. To most of us, the
direction of the skirt steak’s grain is counterintuitive. The
steak is long and thin, and people often assume the grain goes lengthwise,
so they slice it sideways along the short side into neat little pieces
just a few inches in length. However, the grain actually goes sideways
across the narrow side. This means that you will need to cut the cooked
steak into pieces about 2 to 3 inches in length, then slice them into
pieces about1/4 to ½ inch wide, against the grain—that
is, along what was formerly the long side.
Fajitas are traditionally served sizzling on a hot iron
platter, topped with caramelized onions. You can achieve the same
affect by placing the cut meat in a very hot iron skillet, topping
it with the cooked onions, and sprinkling on some lime juice, which
creates the steam and sizzle.
Fajitas
2 pounds skirt steak, outside cut, if possible
Adolphs®All Natural, Sodium Free, Original Unseasoned tenderizer (optional
but recommended with the outside cut)
Salt and black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 dozen hot, flour tortillas
guacamole
pico de gallo ( traditional relish of chopped tomatoes, onions, serrano
chiles, and cilantro)
Your favorite salsas
The optional onions:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large white onion, cut into thin slices
1 clove minced garlic
½ teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
If using tenderizer, apply it just before you start the coals. To do
this, sprinkle it over one side and drive it into the meat by puncturing
it all over with a fork. This mimics the action of a machine tenderizer
but, as it is not nearly as aggressive, does not ruin the texture.
Turn the meat over and repeat on the other side. Salt and pepper the
meat to taste.
Start a fire using either mesquite charcoal or wood, and place a grill
3 - 5 inches above them. The coals will be ready within a few minutes
after the flames subside, when they are at their hottest. Before placing
the meat on the hot grill, brush it quickly with the end of a towel
dipped in cooking oil to keep the meat from sticking.
If you want to serve the fajitas with the onions, begin to prepare
them just after you light the coals.
To do so, heat a large skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil,
then the onions, and toss them thoroughly. Cook the onions, stirring
frequently, until they are golden brown. To keep them from burning
turn the heat down as necessary. This should take about 15 to 20 minutes.
Just before the onions are done, add the garlic, thyme and cilantro
and cook two minutes more. Scrape the onions into a bowl and reserve.
To broil the meat, place it on the oiled grill, and allow it to cook
for about 2 ½ minutes, then turn and repeat on the other side.
Depending on the heat of your coals, and the distance from the grill,
you may need to turn the meat again and cook another minute or two.
If you plan to serve the fajitas in a sizzling hot skillet, make them
a little less well-done than you want them as they will continue to
cook in the pan.
When the fajitas are finished, remove them from the heat, place them
on a chopping board, and allow them to rest for 2 minutes. This will
cause them to reabsorb their juice so that it will not all run out
when the meat is cut. In the meantime, heat an iron skillet over high
heat until it is very hot, but do not get it so hot that it might
break. Also, place the tortillas, guacamole, pico de gallo and salsa
on the table. Slice the meat against the grain as described above,
mix it with the reserved onions, if using them, and place the combination
into the piping hot skillet. Immediately pour the lime juice over
the meat. Serve the platter of sizzling fajitas, making sure you use
kitchen mitts or thick layers of towel to protect your hands from
the heat, and something like a small chopping block under the pan
to protect your table surface.
Serves 4.
|
